Tuesday 30 June 2009

Glastonbury

Bless me, Faithful, for I have sinned: it has been eight days since my last confession. And for five of them, I was a sinner indeed, a muddy, sweaty, inebriated, heady, hedonistic sinner at the Glastonbury Festival 2009. I'd had simply no idea it would be such fun.

I arrived at around 5pm on Thursday and the sun leant on me heavily as I began the walk from the car park towards the distant tipi field with my heavy rucksack and several additional bags. The sweat began dripping almost immediately but I was determined not to take things too seriously because a) that would be going against the festival spirit and b) I knew from Glasto revision that the walk ahead would be lengthy and slow. As I trundled along, I looked around me at the curious sight of field upon field upon field of tents, all left unprotected, all containing the possessions of one or more of the 140,000 festival attendees, and marvelled at the huge variety of attendees, all human but otherwise very different individuals - hippies, posh kids, babies, wrinkly old potheads, druggies, alkies, musos and people just coming along for the ride. Although actually, on reflection, it was almost exclusively white. Which is food for thought. What did strike me is that arriving at Glastonbury after a long drive in the baking heat, picking up all your stuff, trudging a couple of miles in the heat and then having to pitch a tent in already packed camping fields is about the most perfect recipe for a break-up I can imagine, and my admiration and respect goes out to any couple who has managed to get through this experience without a ruckus. It was a moment that made me delighted to be flying solo.

Eventually I reached the tipi looking like I'd just emerged from a downpour, took off all my clothes and stood there, alone in its surprising space (approx. 15 foot high in the middle, and plenty of room for six people to sleep in comfort on the ground) for a few seconds before I noticed a grassy square in the middle of the matting and, on closer inspection, saw something slightly unexpected therein: a human poo. I was too hot and tired to be repulsed and giggled to myself for a while before going back to the reception tipi and announcing to the five assembled tipi workers that there was a pile of excrement in the Blue Ant. To their credit, they looked suitably shocked and were swift to rectify the situation. And due to an administrative confusion, we ended up being in the Black Badger anyway. Ah, the Black Badger. I miss it already. The purchase of a tipi was undeniably a Good Thing, allowing large amounts of space outside the tent on which to lie at breakfast time or sit in the evenings, and a row of regularly-cleaned portaloos, and amazing solar showers.

Besides, I really didn't spend that much time in the tent. Within an hour of dumping my rucksack, I was in a vintage clothing shop while drinking wine, and bought a fantastic long pink dress for £8. And things got way better after that. There are apparently fifty stages spread over a site area that is a mile and a half wide, with a perimeter of nearly nine miles. On my last night of four, I discovered an entirely new area which took me over an hour to walk around. It is just absolutely vast. And everywhere is fun. More than the music, there are bars, shops, theatre acts, comedians, fortune tellers, restaurants, craft classes, yoga workshops... It was dirty and it did rain, and my clothes got damp, and the toilet facilities were often foul, and I showered only once in nearly five days, but - but but but but but. The sun shone a lot too, the music was varied and at times amazing, the food was delicious (I ate bacon butties, pizza, rotisserie chicken, fresh fruit salads, donuts, muesli, sweets, crepes and biscuits), the people I was with were unrelentingly wonderful, and - the biggest surprise at all - everyone else was unrelentingly wonderful too. In four days, I didn't see a single person get irritable. There was just the most incredible sense of understanding - no matter if the girl in front of you was the size of a mansion and wearing a miniscule tutu and a bad bikini, whereas in London I might have winced, at Glastonbury, anything goes, and I felt genuinely delighted that she was happy and confident enough to wear whatever tickled her pickle. If someone sits down in the middle of the thoroughfare, you step round them. There's no competitive jostling for good places at gigs. There's no pushing and shoving full stop. Even with 140,000 people who, while maybe not all drugged up or drunk, are surely all tired and a bit fractious, there was a permanent, and I mean permanent, air of laissez-faire gloriousness. Despite not getting involved in any illegal substances, I felt a bit like a delightfully stoned Shire horse all weekend, plodding around in wellies and a good natured haze, happily criss-crossing the festival site from one fun adventure to the next. Laughing highlights were finding out that Nick once fell asleep while skiing, and an incident involving Ses sitting on a man's shoulders at the Blur gig but somehow getting on the wrong way round so he was face to face with her crotch. I doubt she would appreciate me going into too much depth about it, but rest assured that it was possibly the funniest thing I have Ever Seen and last night I was still laughing so hard about it that tears were streaming down my face. Musical highlights were Bon Iver, Little Boots and Blur - the latter a highlight not so much because it was the best gig I've been to musically, but because I was feeling as happy as I've been for years, standing with a group of fantastic friends, while some of my favourite songs were played live a few metres away by a brilliant band, and bang next to us was a group of some of their biggest fans who joined in on all the harmonies, knew every single word and shared their whiskey with us. I don't even like whiskey, but on Sunday night, it, along with everything else, was delicious.

I left reluctantly yesterday morning and have been feeling emotional and bereft ever since, assisted by the footage and reviews that I have been watching and reading non-stop since my return, which is a bit like looking at old photos of exes after they've dumped you, but as Laura reminded me this morning, at least everyone else has gone home too, and it's not like the fun is continuing without me. God it was fantastic though. Bring on 2010.

Monday 22 June 2009

Slave to the rhythm

Despite almost 32 years of evidence to the contrary - and, believe me, no one was more shocked than I to find out the truth - it has emerged that I Am Cool. For on Saturday night, I attended the UK Beatboxing Championships Final and I had a motherfucking brilliant time. (Note: if, like me, you are a fan of beatboxing, you will know that you have to say motherfucking before every single motherfucking thing you say. That's what the motherfucking kids are doing.) What was even more motherfucking cool than the abso-motherfucking-lutely incredible beatboxing was the fact that in the motherfucking hiatus between the first and second rounds, some motherfuckers in the audience started an impromptu motherfucking dance-off! A genuine one, with everyone standing around watching, wearing a face that said "I could obviously dance as well as this too, I just can't be motherfucking bothered right now." I was well impressed. Since then I've been hanging out with my motherfucking parents and tonight I have motherfucking choir practice.

Friday 19 June 2009

Disaster

About four or five years ago, when the Krispy Kreme donut ship had just docked in the UK, and everyone was going insane in the membrane about them, I decided to see what the hoohah was about. I consider myself to be a huge fan of donuts, in every sense, and these were said to be the Kreme de la Kreme of their genre, so my expectations were high. I bought my favourite, a simple glazed ring, and bit in. As I chewed, I could sense my thighs and buttocks sighing with relief as I realised that it just wasn't that nice. There was an overpowering vanilla flavour that was too strong, the glaze was too thin and the texture was too gooey. I would certainly be able to resist them in future.

And since then, I have resisted completely. I regularly walk past a Krispy Kreme outlet in Liverpool Street station, and am never tempted. I turn down all offers when people buy the huge KK selection boxes for an office celebration. All it takes is for me to recall the slightly sickening sensation of the glazed ring of yore, and I remember that eating one would be wasted fat. There are plenty of other ways for me to triple my recommended daily calorific intake that are far more delicious.

Or so I thought.

Claiming hunger a few moments ago after a diminuitive lunch of an EAT chicken salad and a few sticks of pineapple and mango, I emailed Laura for assistance. Seconds later, she entered my office with a donut reverently held before her on a white napkin. Like the one I'd sampled years before, it was round and glazed, but this one was covered with an additional sprinkling of white chocolate curls. We performed the dissection. Nuclear-red jam oozed out. Cautiously, I took my half, unconvinced: if the glazed ring circa 2006 had been was sickly, how bad would it be with the addition of further dough, neon jam and white chocolate? Nonetheless, weak and frail with post-lunch starvation, I bravely pushed my fears to one side and took a bite. Sweet god of all things heavenly and unhealthy, but it was delicious. Firm but moist, smooth and sweet, offset with a good and unusually central pocket tangy jam and the textural surprise of the thick chocolate shavings. My half was gone in a matter of seconds. And when Laura said she didn't want the rest of her section, I picked up the remaining third and forced it down too.

Now they are all I can think about. Much like Pringles, I fear I have popped and will now be unable to stop. I have opened the sluice gates, and an obsession with Krispy Kremes has begun. My mouth is awash with donut-infused saliva. I need more. I must have more. I will stop at nothing to get another. Although I can't quite be bothered to stand up. If the only thing that will save me from clinical obesity is my own laziness, I think we're in a serious situation here.

Thursday 18 June 2009

Back

Well, I'm back. Back in the UK, back in London, back at my desk, back in the game. Apparently I am "disgustingly brown" - I can't decide how I feel about that. Probably good, on balance. The most amazing thing that has happened since my return is that I received an email from Transport for London saying that someone had actually handed in the items I'd left on the tube like a dick last month. They'd been given to a tube worker at High Street Kensington, and I'd left them when I'd got off at Paddington on a Circle Line train bound for the City, so they went almost the entire way around the loop on their own, with no one nicking the brand new flip-flops and brand new Zara dress. Maybe they're disgusting. Either way, it really is absolutely extraordinary and very very wonderful that a) someone was nice enough to do that and that b) the TfL system managed to match up the bag with my description of it on their website. The efficiency alone makes me very happy. It wouldn't happen in Egypt, I can tell you. I toddled over to Baker Street yesterday, showed them my ID, described the items and hey presto, a couple of minutes later, we were reuninted. Marvellous.

A request to the Dream Fairy: please can I stop dreaming about shopping? For the last four or five nights, I've had the most wonderful consumerist dreams, where I've purchased quirky items for my flat and/or beautiful vintage dresses and then woken up and found I own them not. It is a very disappointing way to start my day.

Now I am counting down to Glastonbury and wondering when, if ever, I am going to notice a subsidence in my appetite. Coming back to work has been odd and my focus has been better on other days, I must admit, but my boss has missed me which was lovely, and I am largely happy. Plus, there's nothing like hearing about others' love problems to make you glad to not be going through sagas, isn't there? To all you whose hearts are aching at present, have strength: this too really shall pass, time really does heal all wounds and there really are plenty more fish in the sea - so many it's easy sometimes to get a bit lost en route. Stay strong, mes amis.

Monday 15 June 2009

Second time lucky

Bloody hell that's annoying. Yesterday evening I sweated it out in a horrible internet cafe, while the butch German lady next to me exhaled red Marlboros in my direction and had an irritating conversation over Skype with her ponytailed German boyfriend, and I wrote what, I am sure, was the longest and funniest blog entry I have ever written in the history of Lost Looking For Fish. And now I revisit the page to find out that only the title made it live. I don't think there's much that annoys me more than having to retype a work of brilliance. It's never quite as good the second time. I am spitting with rage. But here we go again. Heavy sigh. And begin.

I can't remember much of what I've been doing since I last wrote. All I seem to recall is applying suncream and then complaining to myself that I haven't been turning brown. Tan update: my feet are brown apart from a few red spots that have appeared along my flip-flop line as a result of some sort of heat rash. Sexy. My lower legs are, I have had to concede, immune to the sun, and are as pasty and white as if I'd been wearing a pair of gaiters for the duration of my holiday. My knees are brown. Result. My thighs are also brown, but fat. Irritating. My stomach is the colour of molton Galaxy, but, as discussed previously, this is entirely useless. My chest is uneven in hue and a bit blotchy. My face and arms seem to be turning a healthy shade, but I refuse to be lulled into my customary false sense of security, whereby I become convinced I am bronzed, spend hours looking at myself in my hotel room mirror to confirm the fact, and then fall for the conspiracy that is doubtless agreed among all airlines to make the mirrors in aeroplane bathrooms make everyone look at least seven shades darker than they are in reality, so that I waft through the Gatwick arrivals hall convinced that people are falling over with envy at my perfect sun-kissed appearance, and allow myself a few moments of concern lest my friends and family fail to recognise me, confusing me instead with some unnaturally blonde Native American Indian, and then I arrive home and look at myself in my non-conspiring mirror and realise that I am precisely the same shade of off-white that I am in midwinter.

In the brief moments when I am not busying myself with tanning, I did something fairly momentous: I followed in the footsteps of Moses by climbing Mount Sinai. Should you ever attempt such an expedition yourself, let me inform you that your trip will go roughly as follows:
1. Take seat in minibus at approximately 11pm. Drive through Dahab to another hotel, to pick up collection of assorted tourists from multiple countries. Leave Dahab and travel for approximately two hours to the base of Mount Sinai.
2. Exit minibus and meet guide, Mohammed. They are not all called Mohammed. But mine was. Set off up gently sloping path, lit only by moonlight. Think to yourself 'This might actually be fine,' but then look up to your right and see Mount Sinai towering above you and wonder how you will make it to the summit in the three hours Mohammed says it will take. He should know. He has walked up it pretty much every night for the last two years.
3. After 7km of winding and gradually steepening paths, reach the foot of the 750 stairs that will take you to the summit. For the forty-ninth time, refuse Mohammed's offer of hand-holding and bag carrying, trying not to get into some Germaine Greer-influenced row with a man whose few words of English probably don't include 'patronising' or 'chauvinist'. Take a rest with your group. Glower at the really weird Australian girl, Angel, who has the body of a gymnast but the face of a wizened old hag and nicotine stained teeth that make her look half-female, half-drug-addled-rabbit, because she has happily allowed Mohammed to carry her sizeable rucksack and hold her hand since we left the carpark.
4. At approximately 4am, begin climbing the stairs, still lit only by the light of the moon and stars. Wonder at the Arabic definition of 'stairs' - in the UK or the US, these death-traps would be cordoned off immediately and all tourists banned from attempting the climb. Frequently wobbly, uneven stones with perilous drops down one side with the added frisson of not being able to see a freaking thing you're doing. Marvel at the two mountain goat-like Hong Kong boys who skip upwards, nattering animatedly and chain smoking. Draw comfort from the fact that the two Egyptian men behind you are wheezing to the point of hospitalisation. With each step, become convinced that you are travelling further into one of the world's most inaccessible places, and then marvel at happening across a well-stocked shack selling cold drinks, biscuits, refrigerated Snickers bars and a selection of tourist items including Bedouin headscarves and postcards. Feel guilty about not giving Moses more respect, but become gradually more convinced that the ten commandments and the burning bush were probably heat- and altitude-induced hallucinations.
5. Reach the summit and breathe in the awesome view for several consecutive seconds, before realising that your sweat-soaked T-shirt and wet hair is combining with the nippy summit air to provide ideal conditions for rare Egyptian hypothermia. Rent a musty camel blanket from a trusty local and wrap it around yourself gratefully as though it is a mink stole. Despair as you realise that sunrise is still an hour or so away and that the possibility of dying of cold atop Mount Sinai is becoming more distinct. Lose the feeling in your fingers.
6. Remember handy snack-pack of fig rolls among possessions and wolf down with metaphorical relish. Putting actual relish on fig rolls is a mistake.
7. 5.45am. Watch the sunrise. Take a billion incredible photographs and allow yourself to be convinced that the quantity of your pictures will ensure that you have the greatest selection of Sinai sunrise photos ever taken, better even thanthose of the man behind you who has brought up an impressively gargantuan tripod and a selection of paparazzi-style lenses to capture the moment.
8. After a brief tussle with the blanket man and, perhaps, a row with Mohammed - mine started with me slipping over near one of the cafes and him saying if I'd been holding his hand it wouldn't have happened, and me trying to point out that the top of a rocky mountain isn't the best place to start a fight with me if he knows what's good for him - begin the descent, choosing with the rest of Group Ramses to take the Difficult Route down the stairs - that's the 750 we climbed, but then a further 3000 steps rather than the winding 7km pathway.
9. Reach the bottom an hour later, in beating sunlight, wondering if you will ever walk again, but somehow muster the energy to traipse obediently around St Katherine's Monastery. Then buy an ice-cold Diet Coke and a refrigerated Snickers bar, the latter almost certainly as a result of subliminal messaging, and consume both like a crazed American dieter who's fallen off the wagon in Disneyworld. Climb back in the minibus and collapse.

That was Friday night and Saturday morning. Since then I've been walking a little like a cowgirl, not aided by the fact that yesterday evening I went riding at sunset, galloping up into the desert behind my hotel and loving the smell of hot horse. The evening would have been nigh-on perfect, were it not for the tiny, tiny ginger kitten who'd scampered up to me as I walked along the beach over to the stables, shouting its little head off. I tried to give it some water but it was slightly hysterical and wouldn't concentrate, so then I took its picture and tried to walk off, but the little thing followed me like a puppy for about ten minutes. I was striding pretty fast, trying not to get emotionally attached, but every time I looked behind me, there it was, bounding along on its tiny ginger legs, its tiny ginger tail poking straight up behind it. Finally we came across a group of children. 'Brilliant,' I thought, 'here is the solution to my problems. These charming street urchins will delight in the little creature and will surely share some of their local produce with it. I need worry no longer.' My sense of well-being lasted for a few seconds, until a fat Bedouin child with wild hair threw a tennis-ball sized rock at the kitten, and narrowly missed. I reprimanded her pointlessly, knowing that adorable ginger kittens are ten a penny and profoundly unwanted, and that I was singularly unable to rescue it myself. Steeling myself and feeling like a bitch, I walked on. And I never saw the little kitten again.

I don't know, it's a funny place, this. As a relaxing holiday destination, it's perfect. The weather has been unrelentingly wonderful: I've seen one cloud in the ten days I've been here, and even that was a pathetic attempt which came nowhere near the sun and in fact served only to emphasise the depth of the blue surrounding it. The people are friendly. The yoga has been great. The coral has been unforgettable. The hotel, especially the pool, is truly fantastic. Without hesitation, I am thrilled to have been here and feel like one lucky bunny. But would I return? I doubt it. Although Egyptian cities are apparently far more cosmopolitan, this is a Bedouin area. I have seen around ten women in all the time I've been here. All the workers in my hotel, all the workers in every restaurant, cafe, internet shop, dive centre - they're all men. It's simply not right. Obviously their treatment of animals leaves something to be desired. There is a lot of rubbish about - if you like your beaches clean, your tap water purified and/or your sewage systems efficient, stay well away. And the corruption is laughable (as long as you don't live here, when it's perhaps a little less hilarious): the police system makes Sicily look like a Quaker commune. Police arbitrarily decide laws on a week-by-week basis, enforcing them entirely at random and extracting huge fines from anyone who doesn't comply, regardless of whether or not they were aware that they were contravening any rule. I couldn't live here if you paid me. And what's brilliant is, in an instance of wonderful temporal harmony, I'm coming home tomorrow.

I had a gorgeous final full day today, snorkeling round the seemingly-bottomless Blue Hole and taking endless photos that will never look good when I get home. Then I sunbathed by the pool and burned my left knee. Now I'm going to check my emails, jump in the back of a pickup and head back to the hotel to pack. I think I've been bitten. Growl.

Thursday 11 June 2009

Nemo found

If snorkelling here is The Bomb, scuba diving here is the A-Bomb. I just went down for a try-dive, my first since I was in my teens, and it rocked the house. I saw lion fish, with their weird Red Indian headdresses, and a baby scorpion fish nestled in some coral that I had to get about two inches away from before I could spot, and brain-like coral that was the most lurid yellow imaginable, slightly tinged with green, luminous to the point of glowing. I took some photos on my rubbish Kodak throwaway underwater camera but I'm not holding out much hope. My favourite bit was being about five metres under and absolutely surrounded by hundreds upon hundreds of the most gorgeous orange fish, all wearing fluorescent lilac eyeliner. My least favourite bit was pulling on my hideous, too-tight website in front of a cafe full of onlookers. But it was worth it.

I had a new yoga teacher this morning, who identified within seconds that I am left-handed and correctly diagnosed me as being over-analytical. My one-on-one classes are fantastic and I want to pack Monica in my suitcase and have her guiding me for an hour and a half every morning and evening when I'm back at home. Still not nearly enough progress on the tan front, frustratingly, but I will keep working at it. As usual, my arms look vaguely healthy, as if I've been for a long walk in Dorset on a July afternoon. My stomach, which no one sees, is the colour of the most gorgeous dark mud. And my legs are clearly being smeared with total block by the Tan Demon every night while I'm sleeping, as it looks as though I have been sunning myself in thick trousers. Right. That's my news, over and out. Ew. The boy on the next door PC is playing what looks like a medieval Arabian version of The Sims, and just sneezed vigorously without covering his face. Then he looked at the floor, clearly saw some miscellaneous matter had been propelled thereon, and rubbed it in to the tiles with his dusty flip-flop. Now he's eating pungent crisps. I had planned to sit here a little longer and try and catch up on the news from home, but I'm not sure that idea appeals so much any more. Hmmm.

Wednesday 10 June 2009

On the hoof

Got to be quick as am catching a cab (read: meeting others to sit in back of dusty pickup for 10 minute drive back to hotel) but basically: snorkelling here is The Bomb. Apart from the jellyfish. They are the opposite of the The Bomb. They are The Extinguisher. But other than them, we had an amazing day. Blissful. Falling asleep after a delicious lunch in the cool shade of an open-sided beach hut, then pottering ten feet to the water's edge for a snorkel in the most fantastic coral reefs, surrounded by tiny Finding Nemo fish and those very thin, transluscent things with long hooter noses that I find strangely cute. I had a black and white stripey fish who became quite fond of me and followed me around for about twenty minutes. It was all heavenly. But then you see a man riding by on a horse, leading two other horses to hire out for tourist beach rides, and, thirty feet behind, a tiny foal following, clearly thirsty and tired. And then the man dismounts and the foal starts drinking milk from its mum, the horse that the man's just been riding, and it's all very wrong to my over-sensitive Western eyes.

It's been a blissful day though, and I feel a million miles from UK politics. I still have no idea about the result of the European elections although I just saw on the MSN homepage here that Gordon is considering electoral reform. Great news, although it seems hilariously unimportant now. The Handmaid's Tale is as good as I knew it would be, I still haven't got sunburned through continual application of factor 30, as a result I'm not changing colour much, but really, other than that, I have nothing on my mind, which is heavenly, and I still have another six days to go. Insh'allah.

Tuesday 9 June 2009

Egyptian Men and Mummies

Of all the men in all the tourist destinations in all the Arabic countries in the world who stand outside on the street asking/begging women to eat at their minging restaurant/buy their badly made tourist tat/trust them with their lives and let them drive them home/marry them, I wonder if any of them, ever, have had an answer in the positive. I simply have no idea why they bother. "All my life, all I have been looking for, eet iz you, madam, you are so byoootiful, please, please do me the honour...?" Has that ever worked? Do they know someone who knows someone who once walked the dog of someone who asked a blonde in the street to come home with them, and she said yes? It is simply staggering.

But then, when in some ways so much is different, then suddenly everything is the same. Yesterday I was lying by the pool surrounded by three mothers, one English, one Estonian, one German, all of whom had babies under three months, all of whom lived in Dahab with their husbands/boyfriends, and all they did, all day, from approx. 10am til about 4pm, was talk about their offspring. It was breathtakingly boring. Then again, all I did during the same time was try to get a tan. I doubt I was particularly interesting. But in my head, I was scintillating. They, on the other hand, made ditch-water look like a sparkling dinner party companion.

All is well here, though. I have never been whiter, of course, but that is inevitable for any hot holiday I go on. I have made friends, yoga is brilliant and I managed the crow pose for all of a second yesterday before falling forward into a somersault. Last night we went to a restaurant for dinner and had Egyptian cabernet sauvignon which stripped approximately three layers of skin from my throat and larynx. Miraculously, it became more delicious after a few glasses. Today I have been playing Would You Rather...? by the pool with Lucy and Clare. Tomorrow I am going snorkeling. I am eating a lot of fig rolls. The binding of the Paul Auster book gave up and so I had to abandon ship and start Margaret Atwood. There's more to tell but this keyboard is unbelievably sticky and I am getting aching wrists.

Sunday 7 June 2009

Ohmmmm

There is something so delicious about sitting in a weird internet cafe in the late evening, with the hum of cicadas and the crashing of waves outside, writing a blog in the light of severely unflattering strip lighting, while slightly worrying about getting eaten to near-death by mosquitos. I am having flashbacks to India 2006 and it is not remotely unpleasant.

Anyway. Namaste. I am deeply content. The Egyptian experience has, thus far, been entirely devoid of unpleasantness. My Easyjet flight was on time, I was one of the last people to board the plane but managed to sit in the front row on the aisle, the seat I would have chosen if I'd been given an entirely empty aircraft from which to choose. I fell asleep before take-off and awoke twice for a matter of moments before landing. I wafted zenlike into the arrivals hall, filled in a swine flu awareness form as I wandered along, was the first into the empty baggage reclaim, received my luggage quickly, my trolley was uniquely happy to move directly forwards, I found my driver holding my name aloft in a clearly typed font, the transfer to my hotel was smooth and fun, I persuasively argued with my American lift-sharing companion that joining the US military was not perhaps the most constructive method of guaranteeing peace for her compatriots in future, I found my room at the hotel to be clean, I appreciated the towels folded into swan formations on my bed, the air conditioning worked, my tuna salad eaten downstairs under the stars was tasty, my book continued to be gripping and my sleep was easy.

Today made yesterday look like a nightmare, so uninterruptedly perfect was it. I awoke on time and wafted (again) to the yoga room, which is built into a mountain and is therefore cool and quiet. I discovered that I am currently the only person at the hotel booked into the yoga class, so I am having personal, one-on-one classes with the seriously nice Anne for the next few days. I feel a bit like Madonna, although with more pronounced bingo wings. Anne is 37, very pretty, an only child and moved here from Balham, South-East London, about a year ago. On first glance, her lifestyle is faintly intoxicating. After yoga, I breakfasted in the shade on yoghurt and honey, washed down with green tea, and then wafted in the most self-satisfied fashion possible up to my room, feeling a picture of calm. I donned my bikini and my factor 50, and made my way up to the gorgeous pool, deserted for at least the first two hours of my lying around phase today, surrounded by beautiful wooden loungers and comfortable striped cushions. Just in case I wasn't smug enough already, I did 100 lengths, reapplied the Piz Buin, and then arrayed myself horizontally on the pole position lounger, from which I barely moved until late afternoon, sitting up once to eat delicious falafel, and standing once to swim and talk to other friendly guests. At 5pm I was back in the yoga studio for my second class of the day, followed by a shower and aftersun application before walking along the beach to Dahab town centre, which is reminding me of wherever it was that Simon and I stayed in Kerala, and I'd probably be a bit more charmed by it if I hadn't witnessed similar tourist places before. It's about 60% building site, 35% rip-off and 5% genuinely laid-back cool, with some fantastic lounges on the beach, cushions for your ass and bench backs made of felled palm-trees covered in thick rag-rugs. The beer is flowing, the people are friendly, the music is cheesy and all is well. I smirked irritatingly at the newly-constructed house I saw on the walk here, which had a carefully painted sign outside declaring it was 'For Seal'. Nice idea, but I'm not sure he'd want it, given that it was monstrous and, I suspected, unfinished, although it was difficult to be certain. I've had a delicious meal of chicken kebab and rice, and I'm now about to head back to the ranch for urgently needed R'n'R after my panic-filled day. More when anything happens. Apparently it's pouring with rain back home. Gloat.

Friday 5 June 2009

Pack it in. Please, someone.

I have not stopped. And now it is nearly midnight and my bed looks like a big table in the middle of a large country fair's jumble sale before the organised vicar's wife gets on with allocating who's doing what. I can barely see the top of the pile of clothes I have decided to take with me to a country where the weather will be so hot that wearing any clothes will be an act of madness or masochism. I am also taking a selection of uncomfortable shoes, jewellery I'll forget to put on, and a range of unflattering bikinis. My selection of suncream, after sun, sunburn gel and assorted other sun products weighs at least six time the Easyjet baggage weight allowance. And thinning down my chosen items is simply out of the question. I feel a late night coming on.

Holiday reading is as follows:
Studs Terkel: Hope Dies Last
Joseph O'Neill: Netherland
Philippe Legrain: Immigrants: Your Country Needs Them
Ryszard Kapuscinski: Imperium
Paul Auster: Moon Palace
Murakami: Norwegian Wood
Margaret Atwood: The Handmaid's Tale
Aravind Adiga: The White Tiger
Aldous Huxley: Brave New World
Robert Harris: Ghost
Flann O'Brien: The Third Policeman

Will let you know how I get on. See you in Egypt.

Tuesday 2 June 2009

Stand in the place where you live

Now this I can agree with: http://worklessparty.org/ The article might be a fraction long for a busy LLFF reader, but the idea that we are too efficient for our own goods rings very true with me, and is firmly in line with one of my other obsessions, the paradox of choice. I was listening to Oliver James on the radio the other day, the author of Affluenza (which I haven't read), who was talking about all parents rushing off to make more money to support their children and god knows I don't have a clue about all this being single and childless, but he was suggesting offering serious cash incentives to parents to stay at home while their children were young, paying them around £25k a year not to go back to work but instead to be full-time parents, at least for the first three years, and it does make sense in a crazy way. All this money, all these desires, it's not right. I didn't agree with John Major about much, but conceptually, Back to Basics is surely where it's at.

But now, Back to Me. I feel like I've been flying by the seat of my pants a bit recently, rushing around trying to have fun and get everything done before I hit the beach on Saturday. The weather has just been glorious, which has added to the confusion since I am now unable to exercise during daylight hours as it would mean wasting possible tanning windows. In an attempt to pre-empt the beached whale whiteness on Beach Day 1, I have slathered myself in Clarins fake tan, which has come up trumps everywhere except the area between my fourth and little toe on my left foot, which is the colour of Dale Winton.

I didn't talk nearly enough (for my liking) about my politics course last Thursday. Now it's all rather distant and less emotive, but I feel I must share that we were joined by two journalists - one, representing the liberal left, from The Guardian, and one from the right-wing Spectator - and although it was all gripping, my favourite bit was probably the feeling that us outsiders doing the politics course were all a bunch of cynics and that the two people who worked 'in the business', who I would have expected to be far more cynical than the rest of us put together, both genuinely believed in politics as a force, and both seemed frustrated that we and the population at large are so delighted every time things go wrong, and so convinced that it's all a great mess. One of them said it was a bit like the scene in The Life of Brian where they say, "All right, but apart from the sanitation, medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, the fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us?" [copied and pasted from a Gearch search, not transcribed from memory] - the idea being that we all sit around slagging off politics and the failing system, and it's so easy to forget all the amazing things that have changed in the course of the last few decades, in the course of half a lifetime - gay marriage legalized, double the funding on the NHS etc. Of course not all changes are unarguably for the better but the fact is, things, massive things, do change. And they will in the future too. It was heartening and inspiring. My second bit was when the Guardian journalist, who I slightly loved, said I should become an MP and that she'd vote for me. I answered, as I always do when people tell me I should become an MP (which happens more often than I would expect) that I am far too lazy and don't want to work that hard. But it was still nice that she liked me.

I wonder if, if I ever have a massive change of heart and decide to stand as an MP, having written the sentence above will come back to haunt me? Although, that said, if I do become an MP, I don't think that admitting that I'm lazy and don't want to work very hard is the most embarrassing/career-destroying thing I've written on this blog. A short click away in the Jane = idiot section, I'm sure any dirt-hunters would find a lot better material. Ah well. Maybe I'll change my name before going into politics. Wouldn't want to meet a world leader and find that they knew that I'd once fallen drunk off a bus after my 10k run and that my ankle is permanently swollen, or that I'd temporarily blinded myself by accidentally putting deodorant in my eye or that I once set fire to my mum's pashmina at a wedding reception while talking to one of the judges of Britain's Next Top Model. Better to keep this identity a secret, eh?

Monday 1 June 2009

Patronising post

Sincere apologies in advance: I am fully aware that I will come across as an unbearable bore in the following sentences. Equally, I am sure that the vast majority of you reading this will need no prompting. But, for those of you who are wavering, this is just a quick message about Thursday's European Elections. Please vote. This is a crunch time for British politics and we have to capitalise on the recent messes over expenses and the economy. I don't care who you vote for (except the BNP) - just get out there and show that you give a shit. If you're not sure in which box to put your X, this online quiz might help.

Right: nag over. And: I really am sorry.